Yohji Yamamotos New Fluidity

Yohji Yamamoto has always been revered by fellow designers and fashion insiders, maybe too much so. Though his latest collection was a very useful reminder of precisely why.

He was the Japanese master doing what he does best, cutting fluid, imaginative fashion - returning heroines gowns in chiffon that fluttered ever so in this show staged in a boxing gym in eastern Paris on Friday, Sept. 28.

Yamamoto's clothes always protect women - they encircle them granting assurance. Emphasizing this in this spring 2013 collection, he sent out a quartet of lady officers, all in khaki green - ranging from cocky barn-stormers to gunnery battery officers, all of them doing military peak caps.

"I was not thinking of any particular inspiration, more the idea of making fluid yet strong clothes that would make any woman feel good," Yamamoto told FWD backstage, after presenting pristine white combinations of lace skirts and surgeon's tunics that had tremendous presence.

But his best moment was his finale - when he was at his most extravagant - creating the kind of artful blood red and deep of night black asymmetric dresses that cried out for a red carpet. It's one of the few areas in fashion Yamamoto - whose Y-3 partnership with German sports style power house adidas has been an enormous success, celebrating its 10th anniversary this month - has yet to conquer. This collection should change all that.

Roll on Los Angeles stylists to the stars. You have been officially alerted.

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