Grill Octopus (Yes, Octopus!)

Octopus isn't for everyone—not eating it, and definitely not cooking it. It's an acquired taste, and a time-consuming and not inexpensive meal to prepare. Plus, while it might make for great dinner party conversation, it's never going to have the mass appeal of, say, pigs in a blanket. But hear us out…

Still, there are few dishes that will earn you more chef cred than cephalopod. And octopus does have its fans—namely, anyone who's ever eaten it when it's been prepared correctly. Worried about sourcing some? Any fishmonger worth his salt should be able to extend his tentacles to order you some variety of octopus, though it will likely be frozen.

The chief fear when cooking octopus is it ending up rubbery and jaw-tiring in chewiness. There's an old chestnut that tossing a wine cork in the cooking water will help, although most modern cooks dispute that. I found that the cork at least kept the foam down, as my octopus vendor had suggested it might. I'm more inclined to credit the tenderness of the tentacles to the hour of simmering and subsequent hour of steaming in the pot.

The meat was perfectly done, and charring it on the grill gave it a nice smoky flavor that went well with the simple paprika dusting and succotash. And while it may not be a dish that's going to work its way into my regular menu rotation, I'm still glad I took the plunge. Octopus is a delicacy in many cultures (Mediterranean and Asian cuisines, mostly) and  it's time for Americans to overcome their squeamishness already. If you can eat lobster, which is essentially a giant sea bug, you can grow to love octopus too.
Grilled Octopus with Summer Succotash
Courtesy of Quinn Hatfield, executive chef and co-owner of Hatfield's and The Sycamore Kitchen

What you’ll need:
1 whole, raw octopus (about 3.5-4lbs.; if frozen, fully defrost)
4 large ears sweet corn
2 cups fava beans, shelled
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
12 basil leaves
2 Tbsp olive oil, plus additional for the grill
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp sweet paprika

How to make it:
1. Prepare the octopus. Bring a large pot of water with a lid to a boil over high heat.  Place the octopus in a large bowl in the sink and rinse under running water until the water in the bowl is clear and the octopus skin feels clean, with no traces of grit.  Transfer the octopus to a cutting board and, using a sharp knife, cut the tentacles from the body, being sure to trim as closely to the body as possible for maximum yield.

When the water is at a rolling boil, add the tentacles and give the water a gentle stir.

When the tentacles curl and the heat returns to a gentle simmer, place the pot lid atop the pot slightly ajar. Cook until the tentacles are cooked through, about one hour. Turn off the heat, cover the pot securely with the lied, and let stand until the tentacles are tender, about one more hour.
2. Carefully transfer the tentacles to a parchment-lined sheet tray and place in refrigerator for 3 hours or, preferably, overnight to allow to set firm (this will significantly help with grilling).  When chilled completely, carefully wipe any jelled cooking liquid from the tentacles and gently pat dry with paper towels.  Keep refrigerated until ready to grill.  Tentacles can be prepared in this manner up to 48 hours in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill, to medium-high heat.  Wipe the grill with a clean rag dabbed in a little vegetable oil once the proper temperature is achieved.
4. While the grill is preheating, stand each ear of corn on end and remove the kernels by slicing down the side, then rotating and repeating.
5. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the corn and season with salt.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is tender and slightly caramelized, about 8 minutes.  Add the fava beans and cook until tender and bright green, another 3 to 4 minutes.  Toss in the cherry tomatoes and tear the basil leaves into small pieces by hand and add to the pan.  Season to taste with salt.
6. Remove the octopus from the refrigerator and evenly sprinkle with the paprika and a little kosher salt.  Place the tentacles on the grill perpendicular to the lines of the grill.   Cover and cook the octopus until nicely colored but not too charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and repeat on the other side.

7. Transfer the succotash to serving plates and top with the grilled octopus.  Serve immediately.  Serves 4 as a main course or 8 as an appetizer.